Alex Megos

Alexander Megos

Personal information
Nationality	German
Born	12 August 1993
Occupation	Professional rock climber
Climbing career
Type of climber	Boulderer, sport climbing
Highest grade	Redpoint: 9b (5.15b) Bouldering: 8C, V15
Updated on 5 May 2016.

Alexander Megos (born August 12, 1993) is a German climber.

Notable ascents

Sport climbing

Redpoint

• 9b (5.15b)
  • Fightclub: 9b (5.15b). First Ascent.^[1]
  • First Round First Minute: 9b (5.15b). Third Ascent. First Ascent by Chris Sharma.^[2]
• 9a+/b (5.15a/b)
  • Supernova: 9a+/b (5.15a/b). First Ascent.^[2]
• 9a+ (5.15a)
  • Demencia Senil: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent by Chris Sharma.^[3]
  • La Rambla: 9a+ (5.15a). Megos climbed second try.^[4]
  • Realization/ Biographie: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed in one day, on his third try.^[5]
  • Corona: 9a+ (5.15a). Third Ascent.^[4]
  • Classified: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent.^[4]
  • Modified: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent.^[6]
  • First Ley: 9a+ (5.15a). Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent.^[2]
  • Thor's Hammer: 9a+ (5.15a). First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra.^[7]
  • Geocache: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra.^[8]
  • Becoming: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent. ^[9]
  • Super Crackinette: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent. ^[10]
• Other Famous Ascents
  • Action Directe: 9a (5.14d). Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade.^[11]
  • Hubble: 9a (5.14d). Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June of 2016.^[12]
  • Dreamcatcher: 9a (5.14d). Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days.^[13]
  • Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flash.^[14]
  • Fly: 8c (5.14b). Megos made the first free ascent of this twenty pitch big wall in Switzerland.^[5]

Onsight

• 9a (5.14d)
  • Estado Critico: 9a (5.14d). World's first 9a onsight.^[14]
• 8c+ (5.14c)
  • Victimes del Passat: 8b+ (5.14c).^[3]

Bouldering

• 9a+ (5.15a)
  • Wheelchair: 9a+ (5.15a). First Ascent. While Megos suggested a sport climbing grade because of its length, this Wheel of Life variation is not a sport climb. Possible 8C+ (V16).^[11][15]
• 9a (5.14d)
  • Wheel of Life: 9a (5.14d) or 8C (V15). First Ascent by Dai Koyamada.^[15]
• 8C (V15)
  • Lucid Dreaming: 8C (V15). Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16).^[2]
• 8B+ (V14)
  • Never Ending Story: 8B+ (V14).^[5]
  • Bad Boys for Life: 8B+ (V14). First Ascent.^[5]
  • Montecore: 8B+ (V14).^[16]
  • Riot Act: 8B+ (V14).^[16]
  • Double Demerit: 8B+ (V14). First Repeat.^[17]
  • Sky: 8B+ (V14).^[18]
  • Trainspotting: 8B+ (V14). First Ascent.^[19]

References

1. "Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada's First 5.15". www.rockandice.com. 16 August 2016. Retrieved 18 August 2016.
2. "Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
3. "Alex Megos: Super-Fast 5.15a". Climbing. 30 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
4. "Alex Megos: Corona (5.15a) - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
5. http://sbx.me, Sbellcheck -. "Alexander Megos - Pro Team - DMM Climbing Equipment". DMM Climbing Equipment. Innovative climbing gear, made in Wales. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
6. "Video: Alex Megos Climbs Modified (5.15a) in Frankenjura". Climbing. 9 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
7. "Alex Megos Repeats Thor's Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
8. "Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-06-02.
9. "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 24, 2016 at 6:06am UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-10-24.
10. "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 17, 2016 at 9:02pm UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-11-13.
11. "Alex Megos Sends Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
12. Pohl, Bjorn (Jun 1, 2016). "UK Climbing". Retrieved Jun 2, 2016.
13. "Alex Megos Sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d for Fourth Ascent". www.gripped.com. Retrieved 27 Aug 2016.
14. "World's First 9a Onsight? - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
15. "Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia's Grampians". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
16. "Alex Megos on a V14 - Gripped Magazine". Gripped Magazine. 2014-11-26. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
17. "Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) | EpicTV". www.epictv.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
18. "Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2016-05-07.
19. "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC". Instagram. Retrieved 2016-10-31.

External links

http://dmmclimbing.com/pro-team/alexander-megos/

http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGR/ambassadors/rock-climbing/alexander-megos/76575

http://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-5-15a-second-try/

http://www.climbing.com/news/megos-sends-first-round-first-minute/

http://www.climbing.com/videos/video-alex-megos-climbs-modified-5-15a-in-frankenjura/

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/worlds-first-9a-onsight

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-corona-515a

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-sends-action-directe-514d-two-hours

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-sends-first-round-first-minute-5-15b-and-more

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alex-megos-establishes-5-15a-link-up-in-austrailia-s-grampians

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alexander-megos-sends-frankenjuras-hardest

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-repeats-thor-s-hammer-5-15a-flatanger-cave

http://www.redbull.com/en/adventure/stories/1331711486232/alex-megos-lucid-dreaming-bishop-boulder

http://www.epictv.com/video/climbing/alex-megos-makes-fast-work-double-demerit-v14/8b-epictv

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/videos-alex-megos-climbing-ceuse-and-rocklands

http://gripped.com/video/alex-megos-v14/

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/adam-ondra-repeats-geocache-5-15a-in-a-day

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70488