Bidni

Bidni
Clusters of Bidni olives ripening on the tree
Olive (Olea europaea)
Origin	Malta
Use	Oil, table

The Bidni, which is also referred to as Bitni, is an olive cultivar from the Mediterranean island of Malta. The fruit is small in size, and is renowned for its superior oil which is thought to be low in acidity. The latter is generally attributed to the poor quality alkaline soil found on the Maltese Islands.^[1] As an indigenous olive cultivar, the Bidni has developed a unique DNA profile,^[2] and is believed to be among the most ancient species on the island,^[3] triggering local authorities to declare some of these ancient trees as "national monuments",^[4][5] a status which is enjoyed by only a handful of other species.

Etymology

According to the "Maltese-English Dictionary",^[6] the word Bidni is derived from "badan", which means "corpulent", "robust", "to grow stout". Bidni ("żebbuġ", olive), is a "large olive tree producing very small olives". Therefore, the tree is called Bidni because it is "corpulent". This dispels several online sources which suggest that the word Bidni originated from the rural hamlet of Bidnija,^[7][8] or that the word means "hunchback" in the Maltese language.^[9][10]

Characteristics

In a landmark publication entitled, "Cultivation and Diseases of Fruit Trees in the Maltese Islands",^[11] John Borg (1922), Professor of Natural History, Superintendent of Agriculture, and founder of the Government's Experimental Farm at Għammieri, described the Bitni as follows:

Borg's work, published in 1922

"The tree is a vigorous grower and of strong constitution. The leaves are broad and rather short, of a lively shining green colour on the upper surface. The fruit is very small, nearly elliptical, with a comparatively very small stone, and turns to a beautiful shining dark violet at maturity, which takes place towards the close of October or early in November. It is very rich in oil of excellent quality, but the fruit though very small is often pickled or salted and has a rich flavour free from bitterness. The fruit is produced in clusters, and the production is sometimes astonishing, the tree becoming literally black with fruit. The tree and its fruit are very resistant to disease, the fruit presents also the advantage that it is never attacked by the olive-fly Dacus Oleae and is therefore always allowed to ripen on the tree. This is a variety which seems to be best suited for large plantations, with a view to the production of oil" (p. 109).

— John Borg

Decades later, the Bitni's disease resistant qualities still baffle scientists. Described by the Olive Oil Times as a "peculiar local variety",^[12] reports seem to suggest that abnormally high levels of oleuropein, a natural antibiotic produced by the tree to protect its fruit and leaves, may be behind this remarkable characteristic.^[13]

Protection

An ancient Bidni olive tree

The 2,000-year-old^[14] Bidni olive trees, which have been confirmed through carbon dating,^[15] have been protected since 1933,^[16] and are also listed in UNESCO's Database of National Cultural Heritage Laws.^[17] In 2011, after recognising their historical and landscape value, and in recognition of the fact that "only 20 trees remain from 40 at the beginning of the 20th century",^[18] local authorities declared the ancient Bidni olive grove at Bidnija, limits of Mosta, as a Tree Protected Area, in accordance with the provisions of the Trees and Woodlands Protection Regulations, 2011, as per Government Notice number 473/11.^[19]

Although the Bidni olive has no PDO status, there are a number of initiatives, which include studies on its genetic composition,^[20] to attain this certification. Apart from legally protecting its name, this status of authenticity is typically used by marketing professionals to gain a competitive advantage at both European and international markets.^[21]

Revival

In January 2006, the Project for the Revival of the Indigenous Maltese Olive (PRIMO), was launched.^[22] This project was initiated by Sam Cremona, a local entrepreneur who is commonly referred to as the "Godfather" of Maltese olive oil,^[23] with the support of Bank of Valletta,^[24][25] one of Malta's leading financial institutions. Apart from reviving indigenous cultivars, such as the Bidni, one of the aims of this project is to substantially increase production levels in a bid to obtain the much coveted PDO status.^[26]

Gastronomy

Crushed Bidni olives in garlic-infused extra virgin olive oil

The Maltese use their olive oil quite generously. In 2012, they ranked 8th in the world in per capita olive oil consumption.^[27] Since the island's history is interwoven with olive oil production, this statistic comes as no surprise. With olive oil processing equipment dating back to the Roman Empire, and possibly even before this period,^[28] the consumption of oil has since become an integral part of the Maltese diet. For instance, in 1804, French writer Louis de Boisgelin noted that, "a clove of garlic, or an onion, anchovies dipped in oil, and salted fish", was the "usual diet" of the Maltese.^[29] Nowadays, the use of oil in Maltese cuisine is still predominant, testimony to this is the popular Maltese snack "ħobż biż-żejt", which literally translates to "bread with oil".

Although the Bidni is mostly known for its superior oil,^[30] the small fruit can also be enjoyed as a table olive. One popular method is to crush Bidni olives in garlic-infused extra virgin olive oil, and then eat these with Maltese bread. Another method is to gently fry Bidni olives after preserving them in brine, and then serve these with seasonal herbs such as parsley or mint. On a different note, the leaves of the Bidni tree have been used to make tea which is believed to lower high blood pressure. This ancient remedy is "still used in rural communities in Malta".^[31]

References

1. "Pressing matters - olive oil". Gourmet Today. Malta Today. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
2. Mazzitelli, O; Calleja, A; Sardella, D; Farrugia, C; Zammit-Mangion, M (2014). "Analysis of the molecular diversity of Olea europaea in the Mediterranean Island of Malta". Genetic Resources and Crop Evolution. 62 (7): 1021–1027. doi:10.1007/s10722-014-0205-3. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
3. Borg, J. (1922). Cultivation and Diseases of Fruit Trees in the Maltese Islands. Malta: Government Printing Office.
4. "Iż-Żebbuġ tal-Bidnija (l/o Mosta) - Tree Protected Areas". Times of Malta. Retrieved 8 May 2016.
5. "Iż-Żebbuġ tal-Bidnija". Malta Environment & Planning Authority. Archived from the original on 12 October 2016. Retrieved 8 May 2016.
6. Aquilina, J. (1987). Maltese–English Dictionary. Malta: Midsea Books Ltd.
7. "2,000-year-old Trees still producing olives". The Malta Independent. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
8. "The Olive". Panoramio. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
9. "Olives grow again on Malta". Arab News. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
10. "Mission to revive Malta's olive oil production". Yahoo! News. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
11. Borg, J. (1922). Cultivation and Diseases of Fruit Trees in the Maltese Islands. Malta: Government Printing Office.
12. "An Olive Grove in Malta". Olive Oil Times. Retrieved 10 May 2016.
13. "Local olive oil 'in demand' abroad". Times of Malta. Retrieved 10 May 2016.
14. "2,000-year-old Trees still producing olives". The Malta Independent. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
15. "Race to save endemic olive tree intensifies". The Times of Malta. Retrieved 10 August 2016.
16. "List of Historical Trees Having an Antiquarian Importance". Government of Malta. Archived from the original on 19 August 2013. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
17. "List of Historical Trees Having an Antiquarian Importance". UNESCO. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
18. "Rural Development Programme for Malta 2007-2013" (PDF). Ministry for Resources and Rural Affairs. 2009. Retrieved 10 May 2016.
19. "Trees and Woodlands Protection Regulations, 2011" (PDF). The Government of Malta Gazette. 2011. Retrieved 10 May 2016.
20. Calleja, A; Farrugia, C; Zammit-Mangion, M (2015). "Genetic Analysis Using DNA Molecular Markers of the 'Malti' Olive Variety Found on the Maltese Islands" (PDF). University of Malta. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
21. "Istrian EVOO Awaits PDO Status at EU Level". Olive Oil Times. Retrieved 21 May 2016.
22. "Olive tree project takes root". Times of Malta. Retrieved 21 May 2016.
23. "Maltese olive oil – world's best?". http://www.jamieoliver.com. Retrieved 21 May 2016. External link in |publisher= (help)
24. "Bank of Valletta p.l.c. Annual Report and Financial Statements". Bank Of Valletta. 2006. Retrieved 21 May 2016.
25. "Bank of Valletta p.l.c. Annual Report and Financial Statements". Bank Of Valletta. 2007. Retrieved 21 May 2016.
26. "2,000-year-old Trees still producing olives". The Malta Independent. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
27. "Greeks Still World's Top Olive Oil Guzzlers". Olive Oil Times. Retrieved 14 May 2016.
28. Docter, R.; Vella, N.; Cutajar, C; Bonanno, A; Pace, A (2012). "Rural Malta: first results of the joint Belgo-Maltese survey project" (PDF). Babesch: Bulletin Antieke Beschaving. 87: 107–149. Retrieved 22 May 2016.
29. de Boisgelin, Louis (1804). Ancient and Modern Malta. London: G & J Robinson.
30. Borg, J. (1922). Cultivation and Diseases of Fruit Trees in the Maltese Islands. Malta: Government Printing Office.
31. Cremona, M. (2002). Cooking with Maltese Olive Oil - Maltese and Mediterranean Dishes. Malta: Proximus PR.