Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri
Highest point
Elevation 8,167 m (26,795 ft)
Ranked 7th
Prominence 3,357 m (11,014 ft)[1]
Ranked 55th
Isolation 318 kilometres (198 mi)
Parent peak K2 [2]
Listing Eight-thousander
Ultra
Coordinates 28°41′54″N 83°29′15″E / 28.69833°N 83.48750°E / 28.69833; 83.48750Coordinates: 28°41′54″N 83°29′15″E / 28.69833°N 83.48750°E / 28.69833; 83.48750
Geography
Dhaulagiri

Nepal

Parent range Dhaulagiri Himal
Climbing
First ascent May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, A. Schelbert, E. Forrer, Nawang Dorje, Nyima Dorje
(First winter ascent 21 January 1985 Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok)
Easiest route Northeast ridge

The Dhaulagiri massif in Nepal extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River west to the Bheri. This massif is bounded on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri River and on the southeast by Myagdi Khola. Dhaulagiri I is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level. It was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.

The mountain's name is धौलागिरी (dhaulāgirī) in Nepali. This comes from Sanskrit where धवल (dhawala) means dazzling, white, beautiful[3] and गिरि (giri) means mountain.[4] Dhaulagiri I is also the highest point of the Gandaki river basin.

Annapurna I (8,091m/26,545 ft) is 34 km. east of Dhaulagiri I. The Kali Gandaki River flows between the two in the Kaligandaki Gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of Pokhara is south of the Annapurnas, an important regional center and the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both ranges as well as a tourist destination in its own right.

Geography

Dhaulagiri range looking west from Poon Hill

Looking north from the plains of India, most 8,000-metre peaks are obscured by nearer mountains, but in clear weather Dhaulagiri I is conspicuous from northern Bihar[5] and as far south as Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh. In 1808 A.D. survey computations showed it to be the highest mountain yet surveyed.[6][7] This lasted until 1838 when Kangchenjunga took its place, followed by Mount Everest in 1858.

Dhaulagiri I's sudden rise from lower terrain is almost unequaled. It rises 7,000 m (22,970 ft) from the Kali Gandaki River 30 km to the southeast. The south and west faces rise precipitously over 4,000 m (13,120 ft). The south face of Gurja Himal in the same massif is also notably immense.

Dhaulagiri I climbing history

Dhaulagiri I in October 2002. The northeast ridge is the left skyline.

Most ascents have followed the northeast ridge route of the first ascent, but climbs have been made from most directions. As of 2007 there had been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities.[8] Between 1950 and 2006, 2.88% of 2,016 expedition members and staff going above base camp on Dhaulagiri I died. On all 8,000 metre peaks in Nepal the death rate was 1.63%, ranging from 0.65% on Cho Oyu to 4.04% on Annapurna I and 3.05% on Manaslu.[9]

Partial timeline

Other peaks in the Dhaulagiri Himalaya

World
Rank
Mountain Height (m) Height (ft) Coordinates Prominence (m) First ascent
30 Dhaulagiri II 7,751 25,430 28°45′50″N 83°23′15″E / 28.76389°N 83.38750°E / 28.76389; 83.38750 (Dhaulagiri II) 2,391 1971
  Dhaulagiri III 7,715 25,311 28°45′17″N 83°22′37″E / 28.75472°N 83.37694°E / 28.75472; 83.37694 (Dhaulagiri III) 135 1973
  Dhaulagiri IV 7,661 25,135 28°44′12″N 83°18′52″E / 28.73667°N 83.31444°E / 28.73667; 83.31444 (Dhaulagiri IV) 469 1969
  Dhaulagiri V 7,618 24,992 28°44′05″N 83°21′41″E / 28.73472°N 83.36139°E / 28.73472; 83.36139 (Dhaulagiri V) 340 1975
72 Churen Himal (Main) 7,385 24,229 28°44′06″N 83°12′58″E / 28.73500°N 83.21611°E / 28.73500; 83.21611 (Churen Himal (Main)) 600 1970
  Churen Himal (East) 7,371 24,183 28°44′33″N 83°13′51″E / 28.74250°N 83.23083°E / 28.74250; 83.23083 (Churen Himal (East)) 150 1970
  Churen Himal (West) 7,371 24,183 28°43′55″N 83°12′45″E / 28.73194°N 83.21250°E / 28.73194; 83.21250 (Churen Himal (West)) 70 1970
  Dhaulagiri VI 7,268 23,845 28°42′30″N 83°16′32″E / 28.70833°N 83.27556°E / 28.70833; 83.27556 (Dhaulagiri VI) 453 1970
95 Putha Hiunchuli (Dh VII) 7,246 23,773 28°44′50″N 83°08′55″E / 28.74722°N 83.14861°E / 28.74722; 83.14861 (Putha Hiunchuli) 1,151 1954
  Gurja Himal 7,193 23,599 28°40′26″N 83°16′37″E / 28.67389°N 83.27694°E / 28.67389; 83.27694 (Gurja Himal) 500 1969
  False Junction Peak 7,150 23,458 28°43′00″N 83°16′38″E / 28.71667°N 83.27722°E / 28.71667; 83.27722 (False Junction Peak) 400 1970
  Junction Peak 7,108 23,320 28°43′19″N 83°16′38″E / 28.72194°N 83.27722°E / 28.72194; 83.27722 (Junction Peak) 20 1972
  Peak Hawley 6,182 20,282 28°46′33″N 83°11′45″E / 28.77583°N 83.19583°E / 28.77583; 83.19583 (Peak Hawley) 350 2008
  Hiunchuli Patan 5,911 19,185 28°49′39″N 82°37′1″E / 28.82750°N 82.61694°E / 28.82750; 82.61694 (Hiunchuli Patan) 1310 2013

† Only peaks above 7,200 m with more than 500 m (1,640.4 ft) of topographic prominence are ranked.
‡ The status of Churen Himal's three peaks is unclear and sources differ on their heights.[23][24][25] The coordinates, heights and prominence values above are derived from the Finnmap.[25] The first ascent data is from Neate,[23] but it is unclear if the first ascent of Churen Himal East was actually an ascent of the highest of the three peaks, as Neate lists Churen Himal Central as a 7,320 m subpeak of Churen Himal East.

Most of the named 7,000 metre peaks are on a ridge extending WNW, separated from Dhaulagiri I by 5,355m French Pass at 28°46'55"N, 83°31'54"E.[26] In order they are Dhaulagiri II, III, V, IV, Junction Peak, Churens East, Central and West, Putha Hiunchuli and Hiunchuli Patan. False Junction Peak, Dhaulagiri VI and Gurja are on a ridge extending south from Junction Peak.[27] The British Alpine Club's[28] Himalayan Index lists 37 more peaks over 6,000 m.[29]

6,182m Pota Himal (FinnMap sheet 2883-01 "Chhedhul Gumba") stands north of the main ridge between Churen and Putha Hiunchuli. Pota has been informally renamed Peak Hawley after Elizabeth Hawley, a notable expedition chronicler and Kathmandu-based reporter.

Hiunchuli Patan (5,911m)

Hiunchuli Patan at the western end nearest the Bheri River is locally called Sisne or Murkatta Himal. It was an iconic landmark to insurgents based in Rukum and Rolpa districts during the 1996-2006 Nepal Civil War.

Climbing history

  1. Pre-monsoon[32] and post-monsoon[33] reconnaissances of Dh.II by Japanese expeditions.
  2. Hangde 6556m in Mukut section attempted.[34]
  1. Churen attempt from north by Japanese Nihon University expedition. Climbed Hangde (~6600m), Tongu (~6250m), P6265 during approach/acclimation through Hidden Valley; also Kantokal (~6500m) north of Putha Hiunchili.[35]
  2. Churen and Dh.VI attempt from south by J. O. M. Roberts, thinking he was on Dh.IV due to inaccurate maps. Climbed a lower peak (6,529m) near Gurja, naming it Ghustang after the stream draining the cirque they climbed in.[36]
  1. Dh.II attempt by Austrian expedition, reaching 7,000m[37]
  2. Dh.III attempt[38]
  1. Japanese expedition to Dh.II delayed two months by heavy snow in approach passes. Lost two porters to avalanche, then another porter was injured in a fall and needed evacuation. This left too little food to continue.[39]
  2. J. O. M. Roberts leads British R.A.F. expedition to Dh.VI, still believing it was Dh.IV. Defeated by late monsoon, then early winter storms creating excessive avalanche risk.[40]
  1. Dh.IV attempt by Austrian Alpine Club. Five Austrians and one Nepali disappear, may have summited.[41]
  2. Gurja climbed by Japanese expedition.[42]
  3. First authorized ascents of Tukuche 6920m and Tukuche West 6800m.[43]
  1. Japan's Kansai Mountaineering Club unsuccessful on Dh.IV in April but climbed Dh.VI[44] and False Junction Peak.[45]
  2. Korean expedition claims they summited Churen East on April 29. Questioned by same year Japanese expedition, see next.
  3. Japanese expedition climbs Churen Central and Churen West on October 24.[46]
  1. First ascent of Dh.II on May 18 by German expedition.[47]
  2. Dh.IV attempt[48]
  3. Dh.V attempted by pre- and post-monsoon Japanese expeditions. Both ended by fatal accidents.[49]
  1. first ascent of Dh.III on October 20 by German expedition.[51]
  2. Dh.IV attempted by Austrians who reached 7250m on N face, then by British who quit after two deaths.[52]
  1. Dh.IV attempt by British R.A.F. expedition abandoned after three Sherpas killed by falling ice.[53]
  2. In Mukut section: ascents of Parbat Rinchen 6200m, Parbat Talpari 6248m, West Himparkhal 6248m, East Himparkhal 6227m, Tashi Kang III 6157m[54]
  1. Dh.IV climbed May 9 by S. Kawazu and E. Yusuda, who died on descent, bringing death toll on Dh.IV to 14. (Compared with 13 deaths on Mount Everest before it was successfully climbed in 1953.) Another Japanese expedition in October puts ten on summit without loss of life.[55]
  2. Dh.V climbed by M. Morioka and Pembu Tsering Sherpa on Japanese expedition.[56]

See also

References

Notes
  1. "Dhaulāgiri, Nepal". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2011-04-26.
  2. "High Asia - All mountains and main peaks above 6750 m". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2014-08-28.
  3. Monier-Williams, op. cit. p. 513
  4. Monier-Williams, op. cit. p. 355
  5. "Valmiki National Park, Bihar". indiamike.com. Retrieved 2011-04-21.
  6. Waller
  7. Colebrooke 1818.
  8. "Dhaulagiri I". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 4 January 2014.
  9. Salisbury, Richard; Hawley, Elizabeth (September 2007). "The Himalaya by the Numbers, a statistical analysis of mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya" (PDF). Retrieved April 25, 2011.
  10. Fallen Giants, pp. 243-245
  11. Dangar, D.F.O (1984). "A Record of the First Ascents of the Fifty Highest Mountains" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Alpine Club. 89: 184–7. Retrieved April 24, 2011.
  12. Diemberger p. 209
  13. "American Dhaulagiri Expedition—1969". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 17 (1): 19. 1970. Retrieved 2016-10-28.
  14. American Alpine Journal, 1971, p. 438.
  15. Reichardt, Louis F. (1974). "Dhaulagiri 1973". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 19 (1): 1. Retrieved 2016-10-28.
  16. Cicogna, Antonella (2000). "The South Face of Dhaulagiri". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 42 (74): 13. Retrieved 2016-10-28.
  17. MacIntyre, Alex (1981). "Dhaulagiri's East Face" (PDF). American Alpine Journal: 45–50.
  18. Dhaulagiri I, himilayanpeaks.wordpress.com, accessed 2Aug2016.
  19. Xexplorers web:The meaning of winter in 8000+ climbing
  20. Νταουλαγκίρι (Dhaulagiri). Article in Greek Wikipedia in Greek language.
  21. Ministry of Tourism & Aviation, Gov. of Nepal (2010) Mountaineering in Nepal, Facts & Figures, List of summiteers of Mt. Dhaulagiri, No. 298
  22. "Ginette Harrison". The Guardian. October 28, 1999. Retrieved 2016-10-28.
  23. 1 2 Neate "High Asia"
  24. Carter, H. Adams (1985). "Classification of the Himalaya" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 27 (59): 109–141. Retrieved April 29, 2011.
  25. 1 2 Finnmap (topographic map) of Dhaulagiri Himal
  26. "Terrain Map". Wikimapia. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  27. Roberts, J.O.M.; Cheney, M.J. (1971). "Climbs and Regional Notes: Asia, Nepal" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 76: 228. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  28. "The Alpine Club". Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  29. "Himalayan Index". U.K. Alpine Club. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  30. Roberts, J.O.M (1956) [1955]. "Round about Dhaulagiri". Himalayan Journal. New Dehli: Himalayan Club. 19. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  31. Eidher, Egbert (1964). "The 1963 Austran Dhaula Himal expedition". Himalayan Journal. New Dehli: Himalayan Club. 25. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  32. Kato, Kiichiro (1960). "Reconnaissance around Dhaulagiri II" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 12 (34): 67–72. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  33. Yamada, Jiro (1961). "Japanese Himalayan Expeditions". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 12 (35): 275. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  34. Humphreys, John S. (1961). "North of Dhaulagiri" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 12 (35): 249–62. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  35. Shojiro Ishizaka (1963). "Mukut Himal and Churen Himal" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 13 (37): 520–1. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  36. J. O. M. Roberts (1966). "Expeditions and Notes, a note on the Dhaula Himal of central Nepal". Himalayan Journal. New Dehli: Himalayan Club. 27. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  37. "Egbert Eidher, 1964 op. cit.".
  38. American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 14 (38): 227–8. 1963. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  39. Hiroshi Sugita (1966). "Dhaulagiri II". Himalayan Journal. New Dehli: Himalayan Club. 27. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  40. J.O.M. Roberts (1966). "With the Royal Air Force on Dhaulagiri IV". Himalayan Journal. New Dehli: Himalayan Club. 27. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  41. Roberts, J.O.M. (1970). "Climbs and Regional Notes" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 75: 196–8. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  42. Yoshimi Yakushi (1970). "Gurja Himal: first ascent, 1969" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 75: 17–24. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  43. "Climbs and Expeditions, Nepal" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 17 (44): 181–2. 1970. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  44. D.F.O. Dangar (1979). "The highest mountains 1968–77" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 84: 29. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  45. Roberts, J. O. M.; Cheney, M. J. (1971). "Climbs and Regional Notes – Nepal" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 76: 229. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  46. Yamamoto, Ryozo (1972). "First ascent of Churen Himal" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 77: 105–9. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  47. Huber, Franz (1972). "Dhaulagiri 2" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 77: 168–9. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  48. Himalayan Journal. New Dehli: Himalayan Club. 31. 1971. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  49. Roberts, J. O. M.; Cheney, M. J. (1972). "Notes 1971 (Asia, Nepal)" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 78: 248–9. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  50. Lawford, Robert (1973). "Notes 1972 Asia" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 78: 241. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  51. Schreckenbach, Klaus; Gizycki, Peter von (1974). "Dhaulagiri III" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 79: 198–201. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  52. Robert Lawford (1974). "Notes 1973 Asia" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 79: 255. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  53. Edward Pyatt (1975). "Notes 1974 Asia" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 80: 264. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  54. Himalayan Club Newsletter (31): 3–4, 1976 Missing or empty |title= (help)
  55. Nishamae, Shiro. "First ascent and tragedy on Dhaulagiri IV, 1975". Himalayan Journal. New Dehli: Himalayan Club. 34. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  56. Connor, T.M. (1976). "Regional Notes 1975" (PDF). Alpine Journal. London: Alpine Club. 81: 242. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  57. Michiko Takahashi (1980). "Dhaulagiri II, III and V Traverse" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 22 (54): 630–1. Retrieved April 21, 2011.
  58. Damilano, François (2009). "Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Himal, Peak Hawley (6,182m)". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 51 (83): 321. Retrieved April 24, 2014.
  59. "Mt Sisne scaled for first time". The Himalayan Times. Kathmandu. May 28, 2013. Retrieved Jan 4, 2014.

Sources

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