Garrett Madison

Garrett Madison
Born November 3, 1978 (1978-11-03) (age 38)
Seattle, Washington, U.S.
Education Western Washington University
Occupation Mountaineer
Parent(s) Cynthia and Patrick Madison

Garrett Madison (born November 3, 1978) is an American mountaineer and is one of the world's top high altitude mountaineering guides, having personally guided 37 clients to the summit of Mt Everest between the years 2009-2015, more than any other American.[1] Garrett began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and his company, Madison Mountaineering, provides domestic training programs and local summit climbs, operates on the highest peaks on all seven continents, and specializes in climbs of the highest mountains in the world.[2] On May 19–20, 2011, he reached the summit of Mt Everest on his fourth successful attempt as expedition leader and guide for Alpine Ascents International, and reached the summit of Lhotse (4th highest mountain in the world) only 21 hours later as guide to Tom Halliday.[3][4] Also on the expedition was guide Michael Horst who made both summits as well in under a 24-hour period, a few days earlier.[5] This historic achievement marks the first time in history that both peaks Mt Everest and Lhotse were summited together in less than 24 hours, and Madison repeated the "double header" feat again in 2013.[6][7][8] In 2014, Garrett led the first ever successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world, reaching the summit with 2 climbers and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014. Garrett also regularly guides many "7 Summits" expeditions such as Aconcagua, Vinson Massif, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, etc., during the year. In addition, Garrett is regularly involved with film productions on Everest, participating in 4 different features over the last 3 years.[9] Most recently, Garrett Madison's company, Madison Mountaineering, successfully brought a virtual reality camera to the summit of Mt. Everest. This Capturing Everest will be released by Time Inc and Sports Illustrated and and is expected to be released early 2017. [10]

Madison was leading a team of climbers up Mt Everest when the April 2015 Nepal earthquake triggered an avalanche, resulting in the deadliest day in Everest's history. The team's doctor, Eve Girawong, was one of the American fatalities.

Media

Outside Online's story of the deadly September 2012 avalanche on Manaslu is supported with photos and notes of Madison's mountain rescue and recovery efforts.[11]

An interview and story of Madison's 2012 Mt. Everest summit was published in the October 2012 issue of Outside magazine.[12]

The MTN Meister Podcast featured an interview with Garrett Madison in 2014 detailing, among other things, his ascent of K2 that was the mountain's first ever guided climb.[13]

Outside Magazine featured Madison on the cover of their 2015 Adventure Issue.[14]

People Magazine and The Today Show both highlighted Garrett's experience during the April 2015 Nepal earthquake while covering the tragedy.[15][16]

In July 2015, ESPN featured Garrett Madison in a video about Mt Everest.[17]


Selected ascents

7 ascents of Mt Everest[18]

1 ascent of K2 on July 27, 2014[19][20][21]

2 ascents of Lhotse[22]

183 ascents of Mount Rainier

11 expeditions to Aconcagua

10 expeditions to Vinson Massif[23]

6 ascents of Mont Blanc

6 expeditions to Mexico's Volcanoes

5 expeditions to Pico de Orizaba

3 expeditions to Denali

3 expeditions to Mount Kilimanjaro

3 expeditions to Ama Dablam

1 ascent of Burke Khang, Nepal--First Ever Ascent[24] [25]

1 ascent of the Matterhorn

1 expedition to Makalu

1 expedition to Manaslu

1 expedition to Ecuador's Volcanoes

1 expedition to Peru's Cordillera Blanca

1 expedition to Cho Oyu[26]

See also

References

  1. ↑ "Alpine Ascents International Guide Staff". Retrieved March 30, 2012.
  2. ↑ "Madison Mountaineering Official Website". Madison Mountaineering.
  3. ↑ "Everest News". Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, 2011: Team is back in Everest Base Camp. Retrieved March 30, 2012.
  4. ↑ "Record-setting performances highlight a bizarre week on Mt. Everest". GrindTV.
  5. ↑ "Everest and Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved March 31, 2012.
  6. ↑ Hawley, Elizabeth (2004–2011). The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley. Golden, CO: American Alpine Club. ISBN 978-9937-506-64-9.
  7. ↑ "Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, 2011: Team is back in Everest Base Camp". Everest News. Retrieved March 30, 2012.
  8. ↑ "Garrett Madison biography". Retrieved October 7, 2015.
  9. ↑ "Garrett Madison biography". Retrieved October 7, 2015.
  10. ↑ "Sports Illustrated partnering to produce first complete Mt. Everest climb in virtual reality".
  11. ↑ "11 Dead or Missing, Scores Injured in Manaslu Avalanche". Outside.
  12. ↑ "Take a Number". Outside.
  13. ↑ "Garrett Madison: Paving the Way". MTN Meister Podcast.
  14. ↑ "Outside Magazine, May 2015". Outside Online.
  15. ↑ "Everest Avalanche Survivor Garrett Madison: 'I Was Powerless to Help'". People.
  16. ↑ "Mount Everest climber describes 'awful noise' of avalanche". TODAY.
  17. ↑ "SC Featured: At the Top of the World". ESPN.
  18. ↑ {{cite web|title=Garrett Madison|url=http://madisonmountaineering.com/garrettmadison/
  19. ↑ "The Sun Shines on K2". Outside. Retrieved December 18, 2014.
  20. ↑ "Fort Collins' Alan Arnette summits K2". Retrieved July 27, 2014.
  21. ↑ "K2 Summit Success". Retrieved July 27, 2014.
  22. ↑ "The Himilayan Database". Retrieved December 18, 2014.
  23. ↑ "Madison Mountaineering: Summit of Antarctica reached!!".
  24. ↑ "How to Claim a First Ascent in Nepal".
  25. ↑ "Premier Mountaineering Guide Garrett Madison and Team to attempt First Ascent and Summit of Unclimbed Burke-Khang Peak in Nepal".
  26. ↑ "Significant Ascents & Expeditions". Madison Mountaineering. Retrieved October 7, 2015.

External links

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