Separate Reality (climbing route)

For other uses, see Separate reality.
Separate Reality
Location California, United States
Climbing Area Yosemite Valley
Route Type Free climbing
Vertical Gain 20 metres (66 ft)
Rating 5.11d
First ascent Ron Kauk; 1978.

Separate Reality is a 20-metre-long (66 ft) long climbing route in Yosemite National Park in California, United States. The famous[1][2] route is well known for its exposed crux and 6-metre-long (20 ft) crack in its roof through which the sky is visible.[3] The route's access is about 200 metres (660 ft) above the Merced River, but is better reached by abseiling from above. The name is from the 1971 novel A Separate Reality: Further Conversations with Don Juan from Carlos Castaneda.[4]

The route was first climbed by Ron Kauk in 1978 and given a difficulty grade of 5.12a (7a+). It was later downgraded to 5.11d (7a) when a block fell off near the lip, exposing a new handhold.

The first to free solo-climb this route was German Wolfgang Güllich in 1986, then photographed by Austrian Heinz Zak, who 19 years later soloed the route himself in 2005.[5]

The route excites climbers not so much because of its technical difficulty, but due to its overhanging exposed nature,[5] and the resultant demands on the human psyche.

In the summer of 2006 the American Dean Potter was the third climber to free solo this route.[6] Since then, other climbers, such as Alex Honnold and Will Stanhope, have free soloed the route as well.

Notes

  1. ↑ Nejc Cesen climbs one of the most well-known routes in the Sierra Nevada mountains of California. 2005.
  2. ↑ Stuck On Yosemite
  3. ↑ Martial Dumas (producer); Didier Chenevoy (cinematographer) (2002-09-13). TVMountain: Separate Reality (in French). Event occurs at 2:20. Retrieved 2009-04-02. daylight is visible through crack 3 minute film of a protected climb of the route in 2002
  4. ↑ Den Fels im Griff - Freiklettern from the ZDF programme Der Sportspiegel (Video on YouTube: Wolfgang Güllich Parte2)
  5. 1 2 Heinz Zak solos Yosemite's Separate Reality. 09/06/2005. "completely out of my reach, not physically, but mentally"
  6. ↑ Dean Potter free solo on Separate Reality (5.11d/7a) and Dog's Roof (5.12b/7b). 2006-08-19.


Coordinates: 37°43′21″N 119°34′53″W / 37.72250°N 119.58139°W / 37.72250; -119.58139


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