Michael Dacher

Michael Dacher (21 August 1933 – 3 December 1994) was a German mountaineer and extreme climber. In 1979 he and Reinhold Messner climbed the K2 in record time and without oxygen equipment.^[1]

A primary school in Khadambas, a village 80 km east of Kathmandu in Nepal, has been named after him.

Dacher was born in Peiting.

Climbs

Europe

• 1950 Geiselstein in the Ammer Mountains
• 1951 Geiselstein south face, south cut, east cut, first five-day tour
• 1952 Fleischbank, southeast face, Bauernpredigtstuhl-Alte Westwand
• 1953 Fleischbank-Südostverschneidung, Mauk, west face (Buhlroute), Schüsselkarspitze, southeast face, Große Zinne-Norwand (Comici)
• 1954 Predigtstuhl – direct west face (4th ascent) Große Zinne, north face (Comici), 4th solo ascent
• 1955 Torre di Valgrande, northwest face (Carlessoführe), many solo tours in local Ammer Mountains
• 1956/57 first West Alpine journey, Westliche Zinne, north face (Cassin)
• 1959 Piz Badile, northeast face
• 1960 Rotwand, southwest face (Brandler-Hasse)
• 1961 Große Zinne, direct north face
• 1962 Grandes Jorasses-Walkerpfeiler, first ice tour
• 1963 Ortler, north face (Schmid)
• 1964 Matterhorn, north face
• 1965/68 Oberreintaldom-Gondaverschneidung und Schießlerführe, Berggeisttum-Cukrowskiführe, Montblanc-Brenvaflanke, Blatière, west face (Brown), Sass-Maor, east face (Solleder), Piz de Ciavàzes-south face (Schubert)
• 1969 Eiger, north face (Heckmair), Mont Maudit southeast arête
• 1971/72 Trollryggen, northeast face (Norway)
• 1974 Cengalo, northwest pillar
• 1976 Rotwand, southwest face (Eisenstecken)
• 1978 Triolet, north face, Grubenkarspitze, west face (Klaus Werner Führe) Karwendel

Asia

• 1973 Hindu Kush expedition, failed owing to equipment losses
• 1975 Yalung Kang (8,438 m) (Kangchenjunga West Peak), 2nd ascent
• 1977 Lhotse (8,516 m) im Khumbu Himalayas, without oxygen masks
• 1979 K2 (8,611 m) im Karakoram with Reinhold Messner; Dacher was the first German on the K2
• 1980 Shisha Pangma (8,046 m) in Tibet
• 1981 Nanga Parbat (8,125 m) in Pakistan
• 1982 Hidden Peak (8,080 m), first ascent of a variation in the north face
• 1983 Cho Oyu (8,188 m) from the southwest in Alpine style
• 1984 Manaslu (8,163 m)
• 1985 Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), failed owing to sickness of a colleague
• 1986 Broad Peak (8,047 m)
• 1987 Everest (8,848 m), failed owing to storms
• 1987 Gasherbrum II (8,035 m)
• 1988 Makalu (8,485 m) failed owing to hurricane winds
• 1990 Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) international expedition, failed
• 1991 Everest (8,848 m) attempt
• 1993 Mustagh Ata (7,546 m) climbed with skis
• 1993 Everest (8,848 m), expedition attempt

South America

• 1992 Aconcagua (6,962 m), Dacher is expedition leader

Greenland

• 1970 Greenland, inland ice crossing from west to east (Nansen route) with Franz Martin

References

1. Galen A. Rowell (12 September 1986). In the throne room of the mountain gods. Sierra Club Books. ISBN 978-0-87156-764-2.